So many cafes and restaurants, so much good food in Leh! When we visited in the summer of 2021, many places were still closed (due to Covid and not too many tourists around).
Here is a selection of our 15 favorite spots that were open.
Looking for… good coffee
1. Yama Coffee House
Just around the corner at our guesthouse, you’ll find this coffee house. They sell good coffee, and delicious pasteries, like cakes and muffins. You can also try the typical Ladakhi breakfast with Khambir bread and apricot jam, freshly baked in the kitchen upstairs by the owners themselves.
There is a nice terrace outside. But you can also enjoy your food or drink inside, where they have a small library with books from all over the world. As well as a small closet with souvenirs for sale.
2. Bon Appetit Restaurant – French Bakery
This is a very popular spot, especially the three tables outside. That’s probably because: 1) it’s in the centre, but a bit hidden, so still quiet enough; 2) they make one of the best cappuccinos in Leh; and 3) you can choose food from the very lenghty menu, including tasty French pasteries (like chocolate crossaints).
3. Lehvenda Cafe
Lehvenda is located in the middle of the main market and shopping streets. They sell fresh coffee and have a small menu that you can choose from. Other than that it has one of the cutest balconies (very narrow!). From here you have an nice view of the main street, the Friday Mosque and Leh Palace.
4. MyCafe
Just like Lehvenda, you find MyCafe in the main street, just at the opposite. It’s a small but cozy cafe, with also 2 or 3 spots on the small balcony outside. The coffee is a bit more expensive, but qualitatively very good!
Looking for… a good view
5. Thabtsang Cafe
Thatsangh Cafe really feels like one of the biggest hidden gems in the Old Town of Leh. It’s hidden in one of the old buildings, only to be recognized by the welcome sign.
When you climb up the old stairs – mind your head with the low ceilings!, – you’ll first pass by a room with a traditional Ladakhi kitchen (including all the pots and pans).
Then, on the second floor you will witness one of the most stunning views over Leh. There are many cute corners to choose from. You will definitely enjoy your break here!
6. Shanti Stupa Cafe
Another place with an amazing view is ofcourse the restaurant just below the Shanti Stupa. You have to climb some stairs to get there (or you can cheat by taking a car up :)), but after that your appetite will be bigger.
You can choose to visit the Shanti Stupa before or after. And then, enjoy the view over the whole of Leh with a good chai or a decent plate of chowmein or momo’s!
7. Wanderers Terrace and Cafe
One of the restaurants with the best views in the Main Market area is probably the Wanderers Cafe. This rooftop cafe feels like an escape from the busy shopping streets. Choose a table to the edge of the terrace, for the best view.
8. Il Forno
In the Main Market too, but just opposite of the shopping street, you’ll find Il Forno. As the name implies, you can find a long list of fresh wood oven dishes here. The perfect spot to check out the shopping crowd in the street below.
Looking for… good food
9. Mountain Delight Cafe (at Samba’s Shop)
This became our regular hang out during our stay in Leh. First of all, because it was just around the corner. But also because they have the friendliest (Nepali) staff, and the best food for very affordable prices (and, not to mention the good wifi connection, in case you need that :)). You find the cafe at the bottom of the Shanti Stupa hill.
10. Tibetan Kitchen
The Tibetan Kitchen opens at 11am, so you won’t find breakfast here. But you do find very well prepared, authentic Tibetan food. On the pictures you see for instance ‘sabagleb’, the tasty filled Tibetan bread. You can sit inside, or at the cozy terrace outside.
11. Chai Shai
To be honest, the only thing we tried at the Chai Shai was the thali (and not the chai). But this was so good! We came back a couple of times at this small cafe, just for this Indian dish with all the small bites (for only 150 rupees / 2 dollars).
There are tables in the front of the cafe, or you can walk through the kitchen, and sit at the backside.
Looking for… good local food
12. local Ladakhi family
Okay, this might as well be tip number 1, because the best Ladakhi food we had was by far at the guesthouse we were staying (Nurboo Guesthouse, read the article we wrote about our stay here)! They made everything fresh and from scratch (both mom and son), with ingredients from their own vegetable garden.
If you’re staying at a guesthouse or homestay, definitely check if they are also offering homemade dishes.
13. Chimath Tibetan Kitchen
After a few days we found this Tibetan kitchen, hidden behind a colorful curtain. The times we visited, it was always loaded with people, and for a reason: the preparation of the food takes a bit longer than average, but the taste is amazing! All fresh ingredients and dishes prepared in the small kitchen in the middle of the restaurant. You should definitely pay a visit to Chimath if you’re in Leh!
14. De Kambhir
This restaurant just opened up again (after lockdown) when we were there. It’s a ladies only staff working in the kitchen, preparing local food. You can choose the filled, local bread (khambir) which the place is named after, soups or Tibetan stews.
In the restaurant you also find a corner with some local products for sale, like the cloth slippers and warm Ladakhi socks and gloves.
15. Lamo Restaurant
And last but not least: this Tibetan restaurant with very tasty food. It’s hidden on the first floor in the market area – near the big Tibetan city gate at the entrance of Leh. It seems that only locals visit there, so that’s always a good sign!
Practical info about visiting Ladakh art galleries – shortlist to screenshot
- Summary:
- Good coffee:
- Bon Appetit Restaurant French Bakery (Changspa Road)
- Lehvenda Cafe (Main Market)
- MyCafe (Main Market)
- Yama Cafe (Changspa Road)
- Good view:
- Cafe Shanti Stupa (Shanti Stupa Road)
- Il Forno (opposite of Main Market)
- Thabtsang Cafe (Old Town)
- Wanderers Terras and Cafe (Main Market)
- Good food:
- Chai Shai (Sankar Road)
- Mountain Delight Cafe (at Samba’s Shop, near Shanti Stupa)
- Tibetan Kitchen (Ford Road)
- Good local food:
- Chimath Tibetan Kitchen (Main Market)
- De Kambir (Sankar Road)
- Lamo Restaurant (market area)
- local Ladakhi family (at one of the homestays or guesthouses)
- Good coffee:
Tips @Breuhuys
Leh Ladakh, 194101, India
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