If you’re traveling in Tamil Nadu, the southeast of India, you can easily spend some time at one of the relaxed beaches at the Bay of Bengal.
We would recommend Mahabalipuram (or Mammalapuram), since it is a small beach town with a very laid back vibe. But you can also choose to stay in the nearby Kovalam or Covelong.
Kovalam is another small fishers village located 40 km south of Chennai (on the East Coast Road, just before Mahabalipuram). Not to be confused with the other beach region Kovalam at the west coast of India!
Port town & history of occupiers
Kovalam used to be a port town, developed in 1720. The spot was provided by the Nawab Carnatic Saadat Ali (a native governor of the Carnatic Sultanate, a kingdom in South India between 1690 and 1855).
In 1746, 26 years later the French took over. And shortly after, in 1752 the Britishers destroyed the place. The Brits also named it Covelong since they had difficulties pronouncing the original name.
Historical remains in a luxury hotel
Holy cows with decorated horn roaming in the streets of the village
Because of this course of history events, there is still a great number of important places of worship for both Muslims, as Hindus and Christians.
Besides the merge of different religions, you can also still find some colonial remains in the village because of its turbulent history.
We only read afterwards, but in case you visit Kovalam yourself: look for the remnants of the Belgian fort in Fisherman’s Cove, a luxury Taj hotel in Covelong. (On the way from Mahabalipuram to Pondicherry, in Sadras you can also find a fort and cemetery built by the Dutch).
Just like in Italy.. By accident (when we took a wrong turn), we ended up a smaller backstreet, just behind the coast. Suddenly amidst the small houses we see this huge building across the street: an almost luminous building because of its white walls. A church so big, it wouldn't look out of place in a pious city like Rome!We paid a short visit to this Christ the Redeemer Church and learned from the priest that the construction of the church was only completed last year, in 2021. Then he had to move on again, because he was going to teach a group of ‘boys from the street’, he said. Too bad for us class was in Tamil..
First surfing school
Nowadays, Kovalam forms a popular tourist spot, with its long stretched beach. Because fishing is the primary occupation of its villagers, you find many boats near the shore.
Drinks with a beach view When we where in Kovalam, we decided to to have a drink at one of the surfschools, Surf Turf. We knew this place from Mahabalipuram, where they just opened another school and we rented surfboards.The place looks beautiful, with an interior matching its beach surroundings and with attention to the small details (f.e. local flowers and a menu in the shape of a surfboard at every table, and palm and tree leaves carved in the concrete floor and painted on the restroom walls. Moreover, you have a beautiful view over the ocean! We found out that they have also have 4 beach view rooms where you can stay. Downstairs you can get more information about surf lessons and other activities.
In the village you also find India’s first surfing school, and lots of other water activities (f.e. kayaking and jet skiing).
Or you can just relax at the beach. But make sure you don’t pick a weekend day to do that, because at that time there will be many day visitors from Chennai and Mahabalipuram around! (Maybe after visiting on a busy Sunday, that’s why we preferred the more quiet side of the nearby Mahabalipuram bay).
Enjoy the beach (and surf)!
Picture perfect After reading about this special collection online, we also went to the only museum in Kovalam: Dr. Arun's Camera Museum. As the name suggests, it is a personal collection. Dr. A.V. Arun is an orthodontist and photography enthusiast who collected over 1500 antique and vintage cameras in his life. With the oldest camera dating back to the 1870s.Things that make the visit worth while: - the collection includes some very special pieces, f.e. airforce cameras used during World War II and vintage spy cameras (shaped like a lighter or juice can). - the staff working in the museum also knows a thing about the technical aspects and operating of the camera. One of them demonstrated this by taking out the cameras - including the antique ones! - out of the display cabinet, opening them up and showing how they work. - they have created a very informative & yet fun 5 minute film about the history of photography (showing the first selfie ever, and the first color photo). - we understood that Dr. Arun himself is present in the museum every week (if you wish and check beforehand, you might be able to schedule an appointment).
Practical info about visiting Kovalam or Covelong – shortlist to screenshot
- Names: Kovalam / Covelong
- To do:
- Spend some time on Kovalam beach
- Try one of the water activities like kayaking or surfing (at the oldest surf school in India)
- Have a drink, dinner or stay overlooking the sea at Surf Turf
- Visit the remains of the Belgian fort (inside luxury Taj hotel Fisherman’s Cove)
- Stop by the newly built Christ the Redeemer Divine Mercy Church
- Required time: 0,5 – 1 hrs
- More info: https://msfssoutheast.org/fr-britto-bhavan-kelambakkam/
- Into photography? Check out Dr. Arun’s Photography And Vintage Camera Museum
- Opening times: 9 am – 6 pm (closed on Tuesdays)
- Required time: 1 hrs
- Costs: 70 rupees (€ 0,85) for Indians / 150 rupees (€ 1,80) for foreigners
- Don’t forget:
- if you want to enjoy some quiet beach time, choose to visit on a weekday
- don’t confuse this Kovalam with its name sake and other beach town, opposite at the west coast!
603112, Covelong, Tamil Nadu
Breuhuys 