Ladakh tip#1 How to reach Leh

Because the summer months are the best time to visit this northern part of India, we decided to travel up to Leh Ladakh at the end of July 2021. That time we were staying in Manali in Himachal Pradesh, the state that borders Ladakh in the south. The easiest way to reach Ladakh is from either Delhi or Manali.

Since October 2019, Ladakh has been established as Union Territory within India. Prior, it was part of the Jammu and Kashmir state in the north. The region is the largest, and at the same time one of the least populated areas of India. Leh is the joint capital (together with Kargil) and the largest town of Ladakh. And also the main hub for arriving travelers.

Is there a difference between Leh and Ladakh?
Not really.. Leh is part of the Ladakh province. So when people say they’re going to visit Leh Ladakh, they are referring to both Leh town and Leh district. Other than that, there is no separate 'Ladakh' region to explore.

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Step 1 – Travel options: car, motor bike, touring car or public bus

When you travel to Ladakh, you have a few options: you can fly to Leh, or reach the region by road – options are car, motorbike and we even saw some cyclists going up there! A friend of ours also decided to hitchhike up there.. but after hearing his stories, we wouldn’t recommend this!

Another, cheaper option by road is traveling with public transport: taking the bus. Or you can take a so-called Tempo, a small transporter bus that can fit up to 15 people. The advantage of this private touring car is the fact that it will only take you one day to reach Leh (in about 12 to 13 hours). 

We decided not to take this touring bus, because it’s three times as expensive as taking public buses (the Tempo costs around 3000 rupees (€ 35) per person, but you can definitely bargain about the price, especially if you go up and back to Manali again). 

Another drawback of traveling with the Tempo is the fact that you can’t decide on the exact timing: we have understood that the departure time is also depending on the other, fellow travelers.

And other than that, chances are that with this private touring car you would be driving mostly at night. This way you wouldn’t be able to enjoy the amazing views on the way to Leh, the thing that makes the trip most worthwhile! 

Travel option pros & cons

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Step 2 – Bus from Manali – Keylong

So, if you also decide to travel by public transport, you have to take 2 buses: the first one is the bus from Manali to Keylong. Since the finished construction works of the Atal tunnel in 2020, this first ride only takes about 3 hours (price of the bus ticket: around 160 rupees (€ 1,90) per person).

We heard this ride used to be a lot longer, because of the Rohtang pass that had to be crossed. The route took more time, not only because of a longer drive, but also because of everyone wanting to take pictures up there, which could cause a traffic jam or two..

There are buses leaving for Keylong a couple of times a day: for the exact timings, the best thing you can do is check the timetable at the local bus station in Manali at least one day in advance. Because it’s a local bus it can be quite full!

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Step 3 – Overnight stay in Keylong

Once you reach Keylong, you can easily purchase a ticket to Leh at the bus station for the next day (reserved seats). The bus only leaves one time a day, at 5am. So prepare for a short night! 

The price of this bus ticket Keylong – Manali is around 600 rupees (€ 7) per person. Since these are reserved seats, you’re journey is guaranteed. Make sure to ask for a window seat on the right side of the bus: from here you have the best views during the ride! Unfortunately we didn’t know before and forgot to ask..

There are a few guesthouses in Keylong and enough dabas (small restaurants) where you can have a proper dinner and a good night sleep.
You’ll also find some small shops here, to get fruit and snacks for on the trip. But during the few stops there’s also enough opportunity to have a meals and buy snacks.

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Step 4 – Busride Keylong – Leh

So, you have to be prepared, this bus ride is going to be a long one… Beforehand they said  around 13 to 14 hours. But there’s always something going on on the road. So don’t be surprised to leave at 5 am and to not reach Leh around 9, 10 pm or even at midnight. Also, there is only one driver that drives the whole journey. Quite a challenge for him as well!

During our bus trip, we had to wait at least one hour because of a road block. And registration to enter Ladakh – because it forms a special union within the country – also took a lot longer that time, since all bus passengers had to show their negative COVID (PCR) testresult as well. Eventually, we arrived around 9 pm at the bus station of Leh.

As a foreigner you also have to register and show your ID, and visa (number and date) two times during the ride.

And what about breaks? The bus will stop at least 3 times. During our trip the first stop was around 8.30 am in Serchu, and it took around 20 minutes in which you can have breakfast in one of the big tents. Here you can get a chai and paratha or bread omelet, and there’s a small, improvised toilet facility (make sure to use it, since the next stop won’t be for another couple of hours). The second stop was in the afternoon – our stop around 3 pm – in Pang. Here you can have a veg thali for lunch.

And then, the most important part: on the way you’ll have the most amazing views, which will make you forget all about the long drive and the, maybe a bit of a stiff butt.. Enjoy!

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#Tips on your way from Manali – Leh (by bus) – shortlist to screenshot

• So, keep in mind:
• in order of travel ease: you can choose to travel by air (flight) or by road (Tempo transporter bus, public transport, motorbike, bicycle, or even hitchhiking)
• you have to make a reservation and you can only book your bus ticket at the bus station of Keylong
• the bus to Keylong leaves just ones time a day at 5 am, you have to be at the station around 4.30 am am;
• try to book a window seat, preferably at the right side of the bus for the best views;
• bring enough snacks and water for the long drive;
• use the stops not only for a good meal, but also to stretch your legs and to use the restroom;
• the bus doesn’t get locked during breaks, so make sure you’ve got your valuables on you (your bigger luggage you can put in the back of the bus; your handbag you can put in the reck above your seat); 
• as a foreigner: make sure you have your passport and visa closeby, to show at the two checkpoints;
• due to the road conditions, chances of a delay are quite big, so count on a ride of at least 13 to 14 hours;
• keep your camera ready the whole time, because the views are stunning!

_^Tips @Breuhuys

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Manali – Leh Highway, Ladakh 194104, India

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