Tip #4 Meeting the Naked Baba (& Aloo Baba) in Pushkar

Giorgio, the Italian friend that we met in Pushkar, took us on a very special – probably the most memorable – trip in Pushkar: a meeting with the Naga Sadhu or Naked Baba.
These holy men and Shaivites, followers of Lord Shiva are very well respected in India. You recognize them by their long dreadlocks, their body being naked and covered in ash (‘a close resemblance to the lord himself’).

The naked babas in India are known to stay in caves in the Himalayas for most part of the year. This baba had his own ‘cave’ – a small space with a fence in front, – and 2 dogs keeping him company.

What makes this baba extra special is the fact that he’s also a silent baba: he hadn’t spoken for 8 years, and was heading for another 4 years of silence.
He communicates with hands and feet, and by writing on a small notebook. Or he lets his Italian apprentice make a call on his (the baba that is) smartphone. You can even find the man on Facebook, we heard :)).

When we visited the baba, there were other visitors as well. Hindu devotees from the village who came to gift him (with the sweets he likes) and to receive the sadhu’s blessings.

Like other babas, this Naked Baba was also smoking chillum (a small pipe) the whole day and night, while keeping the holy fire – called dhuni – in front of him burning (both to keep him warm, just like the ash he is covered in).

There's a whole ritual to becoming a baba..

First a thorough background check is being done by the older babas. If they clear the person of that first step the next step is to renounce sex and family and go into penance. 
After this is done, they have to perform the last rites of themselves symbolizing they no more belong to this world. They have no family, friends, worldly feelings. 

After renouncing the world, in the next step they accept the rudraksha and vow to never cut their hair. Rudrakasha is a holy bead considered to have formed from lord Shiva's tears, hence the name, Rudra meaning Shiva - Aksha meaning tear. 
After they become a naga they have to eat only once a day after taking bhiksha (begging) from 7 houses and sleep on the floor. 
After successfully completing all the stages the person is given a sacred mantra and accepted into the clan.

(Source: Newindianexpress.com)

We’ve been spending around 1,5 to 2 hours on the floor in front of the Baba, sharing a chai and the sweets we brought (and chillum if we would have wanted :)). We don’t know if it was the fascinating setting, the man’s energy, or both, but it felt like a very calming experience, and like a lot less time had passed than the 2 hours. Definitely a meeting we won’t forget.

If you want to visit this Baba as well, just ask around. There will for sure be someone who can lead you to him. He’s located near the cremation ground.

*A portrait of the other famous baba of Pushkar, Aloo Baba (source: Flickr)*

And otherwise you can try the other, more famous and visited baba of Pushkar, Aloo Baba or the ‘Potato Guru’. This nickname the 75-year-old apparently got because he’s fond of potatos (aloo in Hindi), and has been eating only that for the last 50 years.

^{It’s easy to find a good scooter or motorbike (or repair if needed!) in the city}

Unfortunately, we missed him when we reached his place. But the drive up there – just outside of Pushkar – and a bit further into the sandy hills and desert, is beautiful, especially if you’re on a bike.